I will teach you as concisely as possible, the secrets to a good shave. What I aim to do is to imbue you with an understanding of the finer points of the shaving ritual, and thus turn it from a tedious chore, to a pastime to be relished and completed with panache on every occasion. In short, I will take the mystery and uncertainty from shaving, and by punctilious adherence to these pointers, I can guarantee that you will obtain a quality, smooth shave every time. 

Hence I shall set forth a compromise between comfort and closeness. Take heed of what I say, because the damage caused by improper shaving can be permanent and undesirable, hastening the aging process and the deterioration of your face. Rather than beat about the bush, I will promptly cut to the chase.

The number one secret to a good shave is the pre-shave. Everything else is secondary, as the success of your shave depends on the primary preparation.

Is the best time to shave before or after the shower? 

The correct answer to the question is after the shower for two reasons. First, by showering after the shave, you wash out the aftershave (which is important for skincare), and wash out nutrients form your skin and dry it out. The second reason is that a hot shower opens the pores on your face, and softens the beard (this is why when the barber shaves you, he wraps a warm towel around your face; this has the same effect as the warmth of a shower). 

Whilst showering take care to deliberately rush warm water over your face and beard constantly (never shave in the shower, it is wasteful and extremely dangerous). The warmth of shaving water is one of the said “finer points”. 

Always use warm or fairly hot water. Hot water in shaving cleans the skin, removes dead skin cells and excess oil, stimulates shaving cream lather and opens the pores thereby creating a clean surface for the actual shaving process. It is quite simply, essential. 

Unless you happen to have an egregiously hirsute growth, shave in the evening; it saves you time the next morning, and allows your skin to rejuvenate and rest whilst you sleep. There is really no need to shave every single day unless you really have to. 

Try to limit the amount of times you damage your face.

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This process further helps to soften your facial hair in preparation for the blade (wet hair is 70% easier to cut than dry hair). After showering - by now the bathroom’s warm - prepare your face for shaving. 

A warm shaving environment ensures that the pores remain open and the beard may be dislodged thence with ease. Now if you think all this is too fussy for your liking then just imagine how boorish a facial rash will look, or how appealing a bristly, sandpaper- face will be against the delicate skin of a lady. Remember then: hot water (never forget the water), clean face and soft beard. 

Gentlemen, hot water (in voluminous quantities), is the oft-neglected secret to a perfect shave.

Creams 

When shaving, always keep in mind the fact that what you are doing is actually cutting several individual hairs. Creams and gels considerably reduce the immense friction between skin and blade. Most people underestimate the strength of these individual hairs, and thus do not pay enough attention to pre-shave preparation designed to soften these stubborn hairs. 

Many men have contemplated the dilemma of whether to use shaving gel, cream or soap. The rule of thumb is that as much as possible avoid using “designer” shaving products. Despite their labels these mass-produced synthetic products are generally unjustifiably expensive and of inferior quality. I will acquaint you with the advantages and disadvantages of each (more on shaving products here).

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Shaving Soap 

These “soak” water well but they do not retain water as much and thus require constant loading. Furthermore, they cannot be used efficiently without a badger hair shaving brush. Most soaps have a strong fragrance. I would not therefore recommend these (save a few exceptions) for the average beard.

Shaving gel 

Good shaving gels are sometimes more nutritious (particularly aloe based ones) than creams and soaps. Many say that they give a closer shave. I do not usually use these due to the fact that they tend to contain synthetic substances and alcohol, which cool the skin, stiffens the beard and close the pores. I also find the lather produced to be too thick, thus interfering with the actual shaving process.

Brushes 

While not essential for an average shave, for a perfect wet shave, shaving brushes are de rigueur. The primary purpose of the shaving brush is to hydrate the cream and the beard. Skilful use of the brush puts the water and lather in contact with the skin and beard. This protects the delicate facial skin, and in preparation for shaving, forms a film of water over the skin to be shaved. This “film of water” is the greatest secret to an exceedingly smooth shave (probably the closest you can get without drawing blood). Warm water more that anything else ensure shaving comfort. To think all these years you have suffered for want of this bounteously abundant commodity. Water allows the razor to glide seamlessly across the skin. The absence of the smooth surface thus afforded, increases the likelihood of cuts and irritations. A shaving brush importantly raises the beard hairs upright and this makes them easier to cut neatly with single strokes of the razor, and little damage to the skin.

To use a shaving brush, place a little hot water in a shaving mug or pot, and add a dollop of cream. Run warm water into the brush and shake off the excess then whisk the mixture using the moist shaving brush. Apply the cream to the face using quick circular movements of the brush. The shaving brush will bridge the difference between mediocrity and excellence. 

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Shaving MUST be done in front of a clear mirror – possibly a magnifying one. 

As much as it may sound a commonsensical fact, when you are shaving you need to see what you are doing and monitor each stage of shaving. 

A common fallacy holds that a close shave and a comfortable shave are mutually exclusive results. Not so! Having taken on board the above advice, you may proceed to rid yourself of your cumbersome beard. 

The rule of thumb: When actually working the blade go with the grain and not against it. 

Shaving against the grain may produce a smooth shave for a few hours, but once the hair begins to sprout again, it will grow out at an angle beneath the skin, and create unsightly ingrown hairs. 

Having applied shaving cream, position your razor at a steep angle, and shave downwards (with the grain). If you hold it too steep, you will cut yourself, too low and you will tear out your stubble instead of cutting it. 

The best way to shave is to begin by broad, scythe-shaped strokes, in order to cut the primary hair and leave just the stubble. 

Begin on that portion of the cheek with the least hair (allowing time for the thicker areas to soak up water), moving onto the next cheek, the moustache and then the chin and then the neck (the chin has the toughest hair, and requires more time to soak water, while the neck is extremely delicate and sensitive). Then, move onto the jaw (another very sensitive area). 

Rinse the razor after every couple of strokes, with warm water. Thus the preliminary shave is done.

The Secondary shave is necessary for a closer finish, and this is where the real finesse applies. Before the secondary shave, wash your face once again with volumes of warm water and reapply a thinner layer of shaving cream. When shaving at this stage it is advisable to tilt the razor at a slightly steeper angle now – this requires great care - and whilst holding the skin taut with a finger from your free hand, begin to move the blade down in short, firm (but not forceful) strokes, avoid going over a single area more than twice.

Remember to hold the razor firm and bring it down with a little weight. For the secondary shave, ensure that you move the razor at a slight diagonal to (but never against) the grain. By shaving diagonally to the first shave, you will be able to pick up the hair at an angle and sever it close to the follicle if it is lying flat against your face. 

Shaping sideburns is best done with an open cutthroat razor (which I would recommend to be best left in the hands of the more experienced shaver).

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