Gila Bend
Arizona

Copyright 2005 


When my uncle was riding the Greyhound Bus coming to stay with us in Arrowhead he kept asking the bus driver how much farther it was to GUYLA BEND where we were going to pick him up.  The bus driver just shook his head over and over, never having heard of the place.

When Uncle Lin pointed to the sign on the outskirts of town and said, THERE IT IS the bus driver smacked his forehead and said, "OH, you mean HEE-la Bend."  

 

.

HEELA Bend is in the south part of Maricopa County near a bend in the Gila River on a desert plain sloping off south into the river. There is a low mountain range just on the other side of the river.

You can get there from Phoenix by taking Interstate 10 west out of town until you reach State Highway 85. Then take State Highway 85 south down to Gila Bend.  

You can also drop down through Buckeye and head east.  And if you have a real spirit of adventure stirring in your heart, go through Palo Verde -- after leaving Buckeye -- and wander around through Hassayampa, Arlington, Desert Rose and over Gillespie Bridge.  The old Gillespie dam may be still there.  

Ted Pierce (mayor of Buckeye at that time) used to hang me by a rope and dangle me down the inside wall of the dam to the water's edge.  There I would tie another rope to the brush sticking up from the surface so he could haul it out.  One time just as I was getting to the bottom a great big catfish came to the top and turned over on his back with his mouth open to meet me.  I started climbing that rope faster than Ted could let it down.  Ted got so tickled his cigar dropped out of his mouth.  He grabbed at the cigar and lost the rope that was holding me up.  Luckily my rapid descent scared the daylights out of the catfish and I never saw it again.  Ted farmed the Enterprise Ranch back then.  He moved his farming activities into the Gila Bend area in the 60s and his son Junior now owns the Painted Rock Ranch.

The population estimate for Gila Bend in July 1, 1998 was 1,754 and two old crabs.

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For nigh onto 20 years Bill Henry had a night man named William Nugent working at his Texaco on the west end of town.  There were numerous complaints on William moving so slowly and his arrogant rejoinder.. "If you don't like this speed you sure won't like my other one."  Bill was asked once why he kept William on with so many complaints coming in.  Bill responded, "Well -- William is never late, never sick, and never short in the cash register.  Besides that he only asks for one slow night off a week, and it takes two men to take his place even then."  

It used to be that William liked to work the night shifts with a big iron strapped to his hip.  "There ain't nobody going to rob me.  I'll turn this gun on them so fast it will make their heads swim."  William was the kind of man to do it too.  His idea of a good house pet was a half tamed wild cat that didn't take no sass off nobody, man or cat.

But, sure enough there came a night when three men jumped William, took his gun away, took all his cash, and left him tied up hand and foot behind the cash register. 

The robbery took place about three or four in the morning.  In a matter of minutes Bill Henry had a crew searching all of Gila Bend for those three men.  They were captured somewhere around daylight with all the cash still in their pockets.  Every penny William had taken in was accounted for.  William quit wearing the big iron on his hip after that.  "I'll tell you what," he told everyone in town the next day.  "You just think you know WHAT you'll do when three men pull guns on you at the same time."  Last I heard William and Sarah had moved to Oklahoma.

 

About, oh, three or four miles as the crow flies from Gila Bend and just across
the river there is a long, sloping hill leading up to sheer cliff face on three side. 
On the slope there are three rock walls about three and a half feet tall.  Slick
Gatlin was running cows in there back then and we went honey hunting at the
bottom of those cliffs.  Wild bees would build their hives right in the rock face. 
Me and the Bowlan twins (fastest twins in the state of Arizona back in the fifties)
scrambled over that small area numerous times and with numerous parties of others.  

A bunch of us heard wailing spirits on many occasions and all of us fantasized that hundreds of Indians had died there.  Not a one of us that I ever remember hearing about ever found so much as a tomahawk there, much less an arrowhead.  (Steve Holt wasn't born yet)  Now Littlie Bowlan was able to sniff out pottery and I seemed to have about the same talents for matates, and all of us were real good at finding other artifacts.  I mean, Littlie was a good enough finder that he found a piece of human finger at a jet crash site AFTER all the authorities had been over the area with a fine-toothed comb and a pack of coyotes had sniffed the area out too.  Well anyway, when this team of archaeologists came in where we once found nothing they uncovered close to a ton of artifacts.  The place is called The Fortaleza now.

The Gila River turns again after it passes The Fortaleza and heads off and around Arrowhead and then on past Sentinel and Aztec to the Painted Rock dam.  Aiming straight from The Fortaleza towards Arrowhead, and just across the bend in the river, there used to be an old windmill where Slick's cows watered.  (For that to make sense you have to remember that rivers are dry in Arizona)  At that windmill I found an old toy glass truck, still in one piece and made of depression type glass.  The bed used to haul a sack of candy in it when it was new.  I would have brought the truck home with me, but Littlie had found a basaltic rock back there around the fortaleza that intrigued him and he said we could take only one or the other, the glass truck that USED TO HAVE candy in it, or a rock that was "still full of possibilities." 

Well, I knew which way Littlie was going to vote when he promised we could come back to get the glass truck some other time.  So I put it down near the base of the windmill and we carried the rock home with us to the Narramore Ranch headquarters where Littlie lived, him and Biggun.  

That rock was full of possibilities.  We looked it over for half an hour when we got it home and I decided we should carve it up to look like a man's head as it had about that shape.  The actual process was carried out in much the same manner as the Mount Rushmore project; I did the carving and Littlie sat back about six feet away and told me where to work next.  About sundown we finished but there was a little hole in the left hand corner of the mouth that Littlie wasn't happy about.  So I stuck a burning cigarette into the cavity and he was satisfied it was the best we could do.

The next day he took it to school, and he came home without it.  "The teacher took it away from me," he explained.  "And he wouldn't give it back."  We never did go back for my glass truck either so I lost it and my head both.

I never thought about that head again until about twenty years later when I stopped in Gila Bend to see my old friend Harvey Brown, better known as the owner of Jungle Jim's Curio Shop.  Harvey was a friend of everyone, having a live parrot and two monkeys.  The monkeys died before I got grown, and finally Laura the parrot passed away too.  But, Harvey still traded comic books and paperbacks two for one, so he was still earning a living.  As we were talking about a local artist making good,  Amderos Manuel, I happened to glance up to the left and there was my head.  "That's MY Head!" I cried. 

Harvey grinned.  "You don't want to claim that head.  Littlie Bowlan brought it to school back in the fifties, claiming he had dug it up from fifteen feet deep on one of his pottery digs.  A teacher bought it from him for a hundred dollars cash money.  They kept it in the school showcase for a long time so everyone could admire it.  Then the teacher took it over to the University of Arizona in Tucson to have them determine what tribe had made it."

Harvey shook his head in that slow, almost smiling way of his and added -- "When they came back with the head they didn't want it to be found in the school showcase any more, so he sold it to me for fifty cents."

I offered Harvey a thousand dollars to get my head back, but he just smiled and shook his head.  "I don't have a parrot any more," he explained.  "So it is things like this that brings my customers back."

Daddy always said that my head would be good for something someday.

Wells in this area are exceptionally deep now.  Getting water is a terrible hardship.  I have this dream of pumping sea water up from the Gulf of California and flood the Gila River basin from Gila Bend to the Painted Rock dam. 

Yes, it CAN be done, and rather easily at that.  Gila Bend is only 735 feet above sea level, and the elevation at the at that point in the Gila River is 639 feet. 

The top of Painted Rock Dam is 700 feet in elevation and the bottom is right at 600 feet in elevation.  Consequently, if we pour water into the Painted Rock Dam Reservoir until the surface of the water is 650 feet in elevation then you will have enough water to back it up all the way to the sea shores of Gila Bend.  Yes, SEA shore.

You sea, since water ALWAYS runs downhill, if our pipeline follows the river beds from here to the ocean there won't be ANY mountains to cross and only ONE pumping station will be required. That makes this plan far more than economically feasible; it becomes politically desirable. 

Over 200 miles of valuable ocean front real estate will be created overnight. Fishing will be enhanced, boating can be encouraged, and on top of all that, rapid evaporation due to intense heat will have RAIN falling regularly in the region.

How MUCH water can we pump into the air?  When I was living near the fortaleza I measured the rate of evaporation and -- according to my calculations, this project will pump 120,434,688,000 cubic inches of water per day into the atmosphere.  I must stress that this will be GOOD water, parched pure by the ultraviolet rays of the broiling summer sun.  Rice farms are not out of the question.  If we put racing boats on that water the rate will be even better, and by putting in thin sheet water falls in a sun-splashed water park AT GILA BEND it will be generating tourist traffic from a hundred miles away.  Come have your fun in the Arizona sun!

Besides that, Gila Benders can carve out tiny coves and raise tropical fish for a greedy, world-wide market. 

If we can just get Gila Benders to quit trying to build ice houses here they will come up with dozens of ways to harvest the natural powers of the sun to launch a revitalized economy.

For example, Why pay for electricity to dry foods when the sun will do it for you free of charge?  Any enterprising Gila Benders could build slats out in the desert and dehydrate dates, grapes, apples, pears, jerky, mushrooms and whatever else have you.

Now for the BIG MARKET.. let's take some big, round, black pipe and set them up with a fall of one foot per half mile.  Punch little holes in the top for moisture to escape, then start a dribble of milk at the top and let it flow slowly through the pipe.  The sun will raise the temperature inside to just the right shade of warm and by the time that milk gets to the other end it will be EVAPORATED milk.

 

   

 

Back in the forties and fifties Gila Bend had an abundance of three things... scorpions, rattlesnakes and Gila Monsters.  Mel Fuentes was my going buddy at that time.  His mother lived off to the west of town but still in town.  The desert was just on the other side of her yard.  One day I was helping Mel fill up gopher holes in his mother's yard using sand from the desert when I noticed the sand in the shovel was squirming.  

I set the shovel down and we studied it for about twenty seconds.  We couldn't see what was doing the squirming so we got a magnifying glass from his mother's sewing kit.  There, plain to see, were hundreds of baby scorpions, squirming in the sand.  We put the sand back where we found it and used dirt from the civilized side of the house from then on.  But if anybody ever wants to raise scorpions, Gila Bend is the place to do it.

Mel was the champion horseshoe player of Gila Bend back in those days.  We partnered on numerous occasions when he began dating my sweet little sister-in-law.  It was me an him against her an my wife.  Them two might have gone on and gotten married, but I was never one to LET anyone beat me.  Cathi got so mad at us for winning all the time that it ended up with her going home to Mama and me and Mel going off to hunt rattlesnakes for a week so he could get over his loss.

There were so many rattlesnakes back then on the road to Painted Rock that cars went that way in the fall just to hear them pop.  Just before you get to the dam at Painted Rock there was a ranch known far and wide as DenDor, or maybe it was DenDora -- I've heard it both ways.  Bill Bates was the head cowboy there back then.  The boss came down from Phoenix to visit him and ended up spending the night. About ten or so he needed some relief so Bill flipped on the outside light and told him which way the bathroom was.  "Watch out for the snakes though."

"What kind of snakes?" asked the boss.

"I don't know," Bill replied.  Helen shook her head too.  "I've never thought to ask them."

The boss stepped out on the porch and took off for the bathroom.  Seconds later he was pounding on the door to be let back in and his pants were wet.  "I don't know what kind of snakes them are either, but ALL of them are BIG!"

Bill Bates could cook better than any man I ever met.  After he quit the Gila Ready Mix crew him and Helen headed to Fort Smith Arkansas where he started up a Mexican Restaurant.  Bill loved to fish, and most of all he loved to fish in Mexico.  He had a place down at Puerto Penasco.  U.S. citizens could not own property down there but Bill had friends everywhere you looked and he could speak Spanish just like a native.  His boat was named Miss Kim and he pulled it with a long wheel-based Chevy pickup that had a big six engine in it.  

There would be times you came into Bill's station and he would be walking the floor, glancing out the window about every three steps, saying nothing.  Sammy was straw boss there then and he'd say, "Golly Bill.  You want me to wash your boat?"

"I'll be packed by the time you're done," Bill would respond.  Before the hour was out Bill would be headed for Mexico.  

Back then air conditioning was not standard equipment on most cars and Gila Bend service stations were doing a thriving business selling car coolers.  There were two kinds.  One kind fit on the passenger side window with a little cord dangling inside that you pulled to get the pad wet.  A sculpted opening to the front funneled wind through the moist pad and made some people think they were cooler off.  This kind sold for $19.95 installed and paid a $1.00 commission.  The other kind fit over the drive line hump ahead of the front seat.  It was electric and most of them had three speeds.  They were designed to be plugged into the cigarette lighter unit.  If a car didn't have a cigarette lighter there was an adapter set to make one.  An internal pump kept water circulating on the pads.  Bill would throw in a free bag of ice to anyone that bought one for $49.95.  The ice cost Bill fifty cents a bag and the Merrit Brothers delivered it to him for free from their ice house. Bill always bought just enough coolers to get them through the summer months because they were so bulky to store. 

One summer he misjudged because of milder weather than expected and as fall approached he still had more than twenty units left.  It was a good time to go fishing in Mexico.  The last thing Bill told Sammy before he left was, "That cooler man will be through here any day now.  Don't buy any, I don't care what kind of offer he makes you." 

Bill had been buying them for $12 each because he bought so many of them at one time.  The cooler man showed up and saw there were still 20 of them left.  "That's bad," he said.  "But I'll tell you what, I'll sell this truckload to you for only $3 each cash money."

When Bill came back from Mexico there were coolers stacked to the ceiling in the office, two deep.  Bill stared at them for about 5 minutes without saying a word.  Then he went into the backroom to wash his hands.  There wasn't room enough to get in because there were so many more boxes full of coolers in there.  Bill came back into the office and stared at Sammy.  His eyes strayed over to the boxes of coolers.  "Golly Sam.  Did he GIVE them to you?"

***

There was one annual event that brought money fluttering into Gila Bend.  This was the migration of monarchs into Mexico.  When they came it would be in a swath about one mile wide and butterflies so thick it was a major calamity to hit it.  The service stations on the east end of town would be selling radiator screens left and right, after blowing the butterflies out of the radiator.  No one ever told the tourists that would be the last patch of butterflies they saw for 298 miles, the exact distance back then to San Diego.

 

 

The Town of Gila Bend had a Volunteer Fire Department with Bill Henry as the chief.  With a live cigar stuck in his mouth and both hands on the hose Bill Henry was ready for any fire that dared to show its face within a radius of thirty miles. Bill Bates was part of the team too and he drove what was called "The Ambulance." It was cunningly disguised as a little Ford station wagon.  Seems like it had been painted red at one time.

Being a top cowboy for so many years, Bill could do a right fair shake of medical emergency work if it had to be done.  He delivered several babies on the way in to the hospital that I know of.  Even when limbs were missing from farm and ranch hands Bill never lost his cool with a live one.

Unfortunately, Bill was frequently pressed into service to haul dead ones to Phoenix too though.  That never bothered him much, but one night he drove the little ambulance into the station where I was working and the smell of a ripe one he was hauling in to the coroner in Phoenix just about knocked me over.  Bill had to get out and pump the gas himself because I was way over on the other side of the island.  I wouldn't even take his money.  "Just get out of here."

The guy had been dead for weeks and somehow the coyotes didn't like the smell of him so they left him alone.  Bill said (later) he had to scrape the crumbling pieces of the body up into a bag to haul him away and there was no possible way he could keep that ripe smell from getting on him.  Then once he was in the ambulance there was no way of keeping out of the smell either.  For weeks after that run Bill would suddenly turn white, leap to his feet and rush to the bathroom.  When he came back his hands would be so raw they almost bled, and his eyes were streaming.  Bill Bates was my hero -- but after that run I never again wanted to ride along in his footsteps. 

At the time it was put in the Space Age Lodge was the most modern motel in the United States.  We were all proud of it.  Al Stovall traded with us at the Texaco right across the street from it.  We helped him out so much (at his request) that he promised that after the motel and restaurant were open that we could have free coffee there any time we wanted it.  After we got the concrete foundation built Al Stovall kind of disappeared on us and his son Jimmy Stovall was in charge of finishing up the project.  Jimmy was the kind of guy you'd do anything for.  He was hard working, shy, smiling all the time, and a good sport even after Bill Bates showed him the easy way to operate on a tom cat.

Finally the motel was finished and we never saw Jimmy or Al again.  Al's brother (or brother-in-law) came down to run the place.  He came over all the time and only showed his fangs one time when he found out our night man was telling folks they couldn't get a room over there for less than $30 a night.  "That's not true.  Some of those rooms are only $15 a night; they just don't last that long."

The average summer day in Gila Bend usually hit right at 118 degrees officially back in those days.  Back then the official thermometer was between two tall buildings.  Jack Ballas had his own thermometer and he would argue with one and all that "they" ought to move the official thermometer out of the shade so it would register right.  "Every time Gila Bend shows up as the hottest place in the nation people hear our name and want to come out here to spend the winter.  The way they've got it fixed now the shade hits that thermometer right about 3:30, the hottest part of the day."  

Jack and I were out at Arrowhead one day when his "almost official" thermometer hit 131 degrees.  Ed Hunt was with us.  "Jack," he said. "I think you'd better put that thing in the shade."

Gila Bend's population first began to grow when the United States Air Force put in its target range south of town.  Eddie Stout was still running cows on the target range in 1970.  He lost a few head of cows occasionally and Louis Nesbitt said he had to run for his life out there a few times because the Jeep he was driving looked just like a discarded salvage unit used for target practice.  

The key to all the Federal gates back then was the same one that fit the gate of the Texaco bulk plant owned by Perry (PD) and Judy Holt -- but Bill Henry and all the rest of us that had duplicate keys were sworn to secrecy.  Just inside one of the Federal gates, back in 1965, Jim Peterson found a 1912 Arizona license plate under a little pile of trash that looked maybe ten minutes old. We thought it must have been a fake because of that, and the fact Arizona didn't even become a state until 1912.  So I wrote a letter to C. L. Sparks who was in charge of Arizona Motor Vehicle Registrations at the time.  He verified that Arizona did indeed offer license plates back then and that Jim undoubtedly had one of them.  There were no records left to indicate who the owner had been though.

PD Holt was a licensed guide on the side, well actually running the bulk plant was what he did on the side because he loved being out in the open country better than anything.  From javelina to mountain sheep, he knew the best places to hunt.  PD finally talked me into going deer hunting with him on one trip with eight other men.  We must have seen a hundred deer that day -- and every one of them was a doe.  

The trip wasn't wasted though because PD took us to a valley (about half way between Gila Bend and Ajo) where there were thousands of hummingbirds.  None of us could believe it was natural for that many hummingbirds to be in one spot, but we figured there was no way PD could have held them there, right?  But, on the other hand, I remember that PD quite often swore to the tourists coming through town that he had seen live jackalopes out there too.  If there are any real ones I believe that is the place to find them.

PD's son Steve taught himself how to make Apache arrowheads and he was practicing to be a guide too when he grew up.  Even before he hit his teens he took grown men out on field trips looking for Indian artifacts.  "We never failed to find an Apache arrowhead or two," he once bragged to me.  

Steve was a great kid to go out into the desert with.  He thought it choicest fun to catch lizards, snakes and Gila Monsters by hand -- even if we had to turn them loose.  One time we decided to go out to an old railroad camp just past Sentinel.  It turned out that Jim Peterson had taken both of us out there separately before that to hunt for old bottles. We got out of the pickup and looked at the old site.  I pointed north.  "Jim said he has been all over that area and never found anything."

Steve nodded.  "Yeah.  That's what he told me too."

I looked at him and he looked at me, then both of us said, "Let's hunt on the north side."  Thus it was we spent four hours in the hot desert, finding nothing whatsoever.  We never did apologize to Jim for our suspicious natures.

===================

PD began selling fiberglass dune buggy bodies from Clyde Due's Texaco station and just to show how good the bodies were he put one on a Volkswagen frame for one of his boys. 

About the second week after he had the dune buggy the kid came walking up to my house with his head hung down.  "PD is going to kill me."  (The boys always called their father PD, not Daddy, and Judy was Judy for that matter)  He had gotten the dune buggy stuck in a sand trough.  I had a V-6 GMC pickup at that time that would go anywhere so off we went.

The dune buggy had gone down into a swale and then bottomed out in trying to get out.  From the tracks I saw that Mike had spent an hour of more trying to extricate the dune buggy from the trap before he came to me for help.  We decided the best thing to do was pick up the front and turn it around so it was heading back towards Gila Bend.  It was surprisingly light and easy to do.  Once we had it turned around the buggy came right on out.  There wasn't a scratch on it. 

***

Tom Harrison had the Arco across the street from where I was working at that time, and his night man was an old man name of Joe, who had replaced Art Velasquez -- one of the best wrecker men that ever lived in Gila Bend.  Joe and I became friends because there was so little Arco business at that time and he would come over to my place because he wanted someone to talk to.

One night I was working by myself two regular Mexican customers came in, but this night I was swamped with customers and I didn't get to them in what they thought was good time.  So they pulled across the street into the Arco where Joe rushed out to meet them.  They got out and went into the bathroom.

Now, these two Mexicans were in the fighting rooster trade and they were always hauling roosters in or out of Mexico when they stopped to see us.  Well, Joe didn't know this fact.  He sees these boxes in the back of their truck and he is just dying to know what is inside the boxes.  Joe swears to this day that he only opened that one box.  "The rest of them opened themselves."

In just a matter of seconds there were roosters going everywhere on this moonless night.  Two of them were having it out on the roof of the Arco but the rest of them, were fluttering who knows where.  Joe was nursing gas into the tank and whistling to himself like he hadn't seen a thing when the two sporting men came out of the bathroom.  

It didn't take them long to catch on.  They started screaming in Mexican, English, Spanish and I caught a few Yaqui words thrown in there too.  They threw their hats down on the concrete and stomped on them.  They shook their fingers at Joe.  Then they knocked each other down at the station door trying to get to the phone.

It turns out those roosters were almost priceless, and they were gone.

The fire department came down to get those two slugging it out on the roof.  The police force was scouring the back alleys looking for more of the roosters.  It was daylight before the excitement died down.

Joe came over and just as he got close he looked back at the Arco station.  "What happened over there?" I asked him.  "It wasn't my fault," he said.  And that's the way it went down in history too.

the end

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